When considering a house rabbit as a pet there are a number of key factors that you need to consider.

Firstly, as with any pet, you must take into account the long term commitment. A rabbit can live for anywhere between seven to ten years, so you must be sure that you are able and willing to care for your pet for this length of time.

Any pet also always requires a financial outlay and a rabbit is no exception to this. At the end of the day rabbits will be an expense in terms of veterinary bills, housing and food. A house rabbit will most certainly need to be spayed or neutered as this will make litter training much easier and will also stop male rabbits marking their territory. For a female rabbit spaying is doubly important as a very high percentage of domesticated female rabbits will suffer from uterine cancer, this is because as opposed to in the wild they are not continually having litters, and thus for them spaying is vital. This does not need to be a hugely costly operation but again it is one more aspect to consider.

Another outlay comes in terms of the time you are able to dedicate to your pet. Aside from the usual time required for feeding and caring for a pet, it must be remembered that rabbits are very social animals and thus unless you have more than one, you are going to have to dedicate a considerable amount of time to interacting and playing with your little housemate. Of course this is very enjoyable time, but none-the-less requires you to be aware of it from the start.

Another big factor to consider with a house rabbit is just how much they love chewing. If you are a household with a lot of cabling lying around or you have very treasured furniture, then a house rabbit may not be the perfect choice for you. You are going to have to bunny proof your house to a large extent, making sure that any electric cable is well out of reach or properly boxed away behind cable protectors. Furniture is not quite so easy to deal with and whilst some rabbits will grow out of chewing or you can get sprays to discourage them, I’m afraid this can not be relied upon for all rabbits. A rabbit is not a dog and thus they are not really open to being trained, so just make sure you are happy to deal with the adjustments before you make the choice of a house rabbit.

In line with the above comment about a rabbit not being a dog it must be remembered that their natural instincts are that of a prey animal. They are sensitive to what is going on around them such as disturbance and noise, and need to be in a calm environment where possible. Some rabbits need quite a lot of time to adjust to being picked up, as their instinct is always to have all four feet safely on the ground. If you have young children or other pets in your home then you need to consider whether a rabbit will be a good addition as they are delicate creatures who need careful handling.

These factors aside, rabbits do make lovely pets. Rabbits have very lovable little characters, loving to interact with human company and what’s more they are very clean animals and easy to litter train. If you have the right environment for a rabbit, or are willing to adapt the one you have to their needs, and you have the finances and time to commit to their care long term then they are a very rewarding housemate. However cute a rabbit looks, you must go in with your eyes open and make sure that the choice is right for both you and the house rabbit, as you will be together for a number of years to come.

Caring for rabbits isn’t as easy as it looks. These adorable, fluffy creatures require tons of attention and affection. They also have specific care requirements which the owner must seek to fulfill for their beloved pet to grow healthy and live a long life. After all, they do have a rather long life span which can be more than 10 years depending on the care that they are receiving. As pets, rabbits are very lovable and sociable. However, cute as they are, plenty of research should be done before you even get one from your pet shop. Here are a few things to consider when it comes to caring for rabbits:

Indoors or Outdoors? This is an important consideration when it comes to caring for rabbits. The safest place for a rabbit to live in would be indoors because domestic rabbits are very different from their wild relatives. They cannot tolerate extreme temperatures as well as their wild relatives and even in a safe enclosure such as in your garden, your pet rabbit would always be vulnerable to various predators. Besides, the noise outside can cause your pet so much stress that they might literally die from fear or a heart attack.

Another thing to consider would be the choice between caging your pet or letting them roam about the house. If you decide to let them roam around the house, you have to make sure that your home is rabbit safe. Because these little creatures like to chew, electric cords should be raised beyond their reach or have some sort of protective covering on them. Otherwise, your pet might get electrocuted. Other things you should watch out for include objects that might poison them. These include mothballs and even various plants such as aloe or azalea because they can make your pet very sick.

If you decide to keep your rabbit in a cage, the cage should be big enough so that they have space to move around in. In fact, it should be at least 5 times the size of your rabbit allowing them to stretch completely and stand on their hind legs without hitting their on the roof of the cage. There should also be small housing in the cage where your rabbit may hide in or rest whenever they feel like it. Make sure that everything is comfortable for them and that nothing’s poking out that might hurt them. Caring for rabbits doesn’t just include feeding them. Basically, it would be a lot like caring for a child and as such, if you don’t feel like you can handle the responsibility then perhaps caring for rabbits isn’t the best thing for you.

Rabbits have been popularly kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well to indoor life, and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention.

Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under “Pets” or “Livestock.” Some can be found through rabbit breeders’ club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.

Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. These breeds, although smaller than ‘normal’ rabbits, still live long and healthy lives. A point to note is that often smaller breeds of rabbits are prone to tooth problems such as malocclusion.

Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.

Training and Play

Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit’s cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.

Rabbits cannot learn voice commands like a dog, but can recognize different patterns of the voice. For instance, If a rabbit is disobeying, for example biting, simply make a high pitched noise, or an extremely bass noise and the message will be conveyed. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more then the words. Rabbits are intelligent, and enjoy games and toys.

It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet’s reach). Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although they can be trained not to chew.

It is important that if a rabbit is allowed to roam in a house that it be impossible for the rabbit to chew or get into dangerous or valuable items. They do not possess the same comprehension as a dog or a cat, and often don’t understand if punished physically; rather they will become scared or confused if some kind of punishment is used, as they do not see the damage they have done. If all this is taken into consideration, rabbits make excellent house pets.

Companionship

Other rabbits

Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.

Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.

Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.

Guinea pigs

Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately. Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don’t. Lack of Vitamin C may lead to scurvy.

Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit’s well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.

Dogs and cats

It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Cats, on the other hand, can become close and safe potential companions if properly introduced to the rabbit and they are of at least roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.

Rabbit Husbandry, Nutrition, and General Care

Dr.Kedar Karki

Scientific Name: Oryctolagus cuniculus Average Life Span: 9-12 years Gestation: 28-34 days Average Litter Size: 6-10 kits Weaning Age: 5-6 weeks Heart rate: 200-300 beats per minute Respiratory Rate: 30-60 breaths per minute Rectal Temperature: 101-103 oF

History

Rabbits are lagomorphs, not rodents, and are closely related to hares and picas. A distinguishing difference between lagomorphs and rodents is the number of incisors each has. Rodents have four incisors and lagomorphs have six.

Domestic rabbits are the descendants of the European rabbit from Western Europe and Northwestern Africa and have been kept as pets since the 16th century.

Behavior

Females tend to be more territorial than males, making female/female bonds the most challenging.

Nutrition

Rabbits are herbivorous which means they require diets that consist of hay, greens, and pellets.

Hay: Hay should make up the majority of your pet rabbits diet. Hay is very important in gastrointestinal health, prevention of hairballs, and the prevention of dental disease. Any rabbit under one year of age should be offered unlimited hay including about 50% alfalfa and 50% grass hays (western timothy, orchard, brome, oat, etc). Rabbits one year of age or older should be offered unlimited hay including all grass hays (western timothy, orchard, brome, oat, etc). Rabbits one year of age and older should not be fed alfalfa hay as it is too high in calories and calcium for the adult rabbit.

Pellets: The common misconception about pellets is that they were made for the pet rabbit. While there are a few brands that are now specially formulated with the pet rabbit in mind, many brands were originally produced for commercial rabbits to promote quick growth and weight gain. Pellets are part of todays pet house rabbit diet, but should be limited in most cases. A good rabbit pellet consists only of the green extruded pellets that look like mashed up hay. Rabbit mixes that contain cute shaped pieces, dried fruits/veggies, seeds, or grains should be avoided as these extras are not nutritionally sound for pet rabbits. In fact, rabbits cannot digest sugars, seeds, or grains very well and a diet containing these can cause medical problems such as loose stool and GI stasis. These mixes are also too high in calories and fat which can lead to obesity. Rabbits under one year of age should be given an unlimited amount of pellets that are alfalfa based (first ingredient is alfalfa) while rabbits one year of age and older should be offered limited timothy based pellets (first ingredient is timothy hay). The amount of pellets an adult rabbit can have a day is based on weight and you should refer to the package instructions.

Greens: Dark green leafy veggies are another important part of the house rabbits diet. In general, the darker the green, the higher its nutritional value is. Rabbits can have a salad the size of its head up to twice a day. If you rabbit is not used to greens in its diet, you will want to start of will a salad half the size of its head once a day and slowly work up. Dark green leafy veggies that are great to feed your rabbit include:

Alfalfa sprouts Arugula Basil Beet tops Bok Choy Brussels sprouts Carrot tops Chard Chicory Cilantro Clover sprouts Collard greens Dandelion greens and flowers Endive Escarole Kale* Mint Mustard greens Parsley Peppermint leaves Radicchio Radish tops Romaine lettuce Spinach* Watercress Wheatgrass

* Use sparingly. Contain high levels of oxalates.

Treats: Anything that is not hay, pellets, or dark green leafy veggies is considered a treat and should be offered sparingly. So what exactly do we mean when we say sparingly? A bunny that is 2 lb or less in body weight should get no more than 1 Tbs of treat food a day. A bunny that is 5 lb or larger should get no more than 2 Tbs of treat food a day. In general, commercial rabbit treats containing sugars, grains, seeds, etc should be avoided. Healthy treats include:

Fresh Fruit: Apple Banana Blueberries Blackberries Cherries Cranberries Grapes Mango Melon Orange Papaya (no seeds) Peach Pear Plum Pineapple Raspberries Strawberries Fresh veggies Artichoke, Jerusalem Asparagus Beet Carrot Chives Cucumber Fennel Green pepper Pea pods Sweet potato Turnip Zucchini

Water: Water is a very important part of the diet that tends to get overlooked on a day to day basis. Rabbits can be given water with a water bottle or a crock. The water bottle or crock should be rinsed and refilled with cool fresh water daily. If you live in an area where the water is heavily treated with chemicals or tastes bad, you will want to consider offering bottled water.

Husbandry

Environment Predators Environmental extremes Environmental intoxicants

Behavior

Rabbits are quiet, relatively odor free, and have a propensity for chewing and gnawing.

Litter Box Training

Rabbits are very easy to litter box train.

Veterinary Care

The two main causes of illness in rabbits are improper nutrition and poor husbandry. Providing proper nutrition and husbandry as described above is one of the best ways to prevent problems from occurring.

In the wild, rabbits are prey animals that are constantly on the look out for predators. Domestic rabbits still have many of the instincts of their wild cousins. This is very important to keep in mind when owning a pet rabbit. In the wild predators with pick out the rabbits that look injured or sick. Pet rabbits will hide signs of illness until they are very, very sick as a natural defense against predators. Because of this, it is very important to call your veterinarian if you notice anything that is abnormal about your pet rabbit. Even something as minor as not wanting to eat a treat that is normally favored could be a sign of illness.

Rabbits should be examined by a veterinarian that is knowledgeable about rabbits at least once a year; more often if there are any signs of illness.

Nail Trimming: In addition to yearly exams, rabbits will require regular nail trimming. This can be done at home or by experienced veterinary staff. Trimming rabbit nails can be a little trickier than trimming the nails of other animals. If you are not experienced with trimming bunny nails, it is best to ask qualified veterinary staff to show you how.

Spaying/Neutering: Spaying and neutering is another very important part of your rabbits veterinary care. The ideal time to have your rabbit altered is 3-6 months of age. However, it is never too late to have your rabbit altered. There are many benefits to altering your rabbit. Females have a high incidence of reproductive cancer which can develop as early as 3 years of age. Spaying essentially eliminates the risk of developing uterine or ovarian cancer because the ovaries and uterus are removed during the spay surgery. Aggression and urine spraying is easily controlled or decreased with altering your rabbit.

Common Medical Problems

Bordetella: Bordetella is caused by a bacterium known as Bordetella bronchiseptica. This organism is also a pathogen in other species such as cats and dogs and is generally benign and clinically silent in rabbits. It is believed to be part of the normal flora.

Dental Disease:

Pasteurella: Pasteurella is caused by a bacterium known as Pasteurella multocida. Pasteurella can be transmitted from rabbit to rabbit by direct contact, close contact aerosol, and venereal routes. Pasteurella lives in the nasal passages and symptoms can range from frequent sneezing (snuffles) and mucopurulent nasal discharge to

Rabbits purchased from pet stores, adopted, or otherwise obtain should be assumed be infected with pasteurella

Trauma:

Uterine/ovarian Cancer:

Breed Overview

There are approximately 45 breeds of rabbits currently in the United States that are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). These breeds range in size from 1 kg (2.2 lb) to 5-8 kg (11-18 lb). Rabbit breeds are distinguished from each other by a combination of body size and shape, ear carriage and length, and fur color and length.

Terms and Definitions

Here are some common rabbit terms and their definitions that are good for rabbit owners to know.

Buck – A male rabbit Doe – A female rabbit Kit A Baby rabbit

While you may be planning to outlive your pets, what if something were to happen to you? Would Fido and Fluffy be provided for in the event of your untimley death or if you became incapacitated? Here’s how you can insure that your pets get the proper care in the event that you’re not able to give it to them.

According to a recent New York Times article, “leaving money to your pet became legally possible in 1990 when a section validating trusts for domestic animals was added to the Uniform Probate Code” which governs these types of matters. And laws in 27 states now allow pet owners to set up trusts for their pets to pay for their care should you die or become incapacitated. And more states, including Connecticut, Hawaii, Massachusetts, Oregon, Pennsylvania and Texas, all have pet trust legislation pending.

A trust for your pet is really no different than a trust for your children. It basically is a legal document that is tied to a sum of money set aside in a bank account with a trustee named to manage the account on behalf of the person establishing the trust.

For instance, my wife and I both have insurance trusts set up to benefit our son in the event of both our becoming incapacitated or sudden deaths. My wife is the executor of my trust as well as the primary beneficiary and I’m the executor and beneficiary of her trust with our son the secondary beneficiary of both trusts. In the event that something were to happen to both my wife and I at the same time, my sister and my wife’s brother have been named as co-executors. They have explicit instructions spelled out within the trust on how we want our insurance policies disbursed to each other or to our son.

Same with pets.

The NY Times article went on to report that unless specific instructions are left in a will or with other family members, pets are often given up or displaced with nearly 500,000 pets killed in shelters and vet offices each year after their owners die and the pets become abandoned.

Setting up a trust fund can cost a few hundred dollars or even a lot less if you do it at the same time that you draw up a regular will. And speaking of wills, yes, you can provide for the care of your pets in a regular will but that only kicks in upon your death and not if you’re seriously ill or incapacitated. And experts also caution not to leave excessive amounts of money to pets that may cause challenges from other heirs. If you want your pet to continue living in the style it’s accustomed to, $5,000 – $10,000 per animal should suffice. Some people leave more and some less. It’s entirely up to you.

The Humane Society of the United States offers a free kit that helps you evaluate your pets’ future without you. It includes a six-page fact sheet, caregiver forms and more. You can contact them at 202.452.1100 or via email at petsinwillsrp@hsus.org.

Why has my pet rabbit has gone from nice to nasty? If you are experiencing this problem, there are several reasons why this might be happening.Lets go over the most common ones and see if that could help you solve it.

Your rabbit has not been spayed or neutered

If you adopted a baby rabbit,you will soon find out that by the time he get the age of 3 to 5 months old,by means teenagers,there are good chances that you see a big change in his personality.What is happening is the rabbit is getting to the age of reproduction and his under a big hormonal change.

So he might starts to resist being picked up and get territorial.Avoid touching his stuff in his cage when he is inside or you will provoke him.If you have to pick up your rabbit to put him in and out of his cage, it is time to make him a side door and teach him to go in and out by himself.Putting a nice treat inside the cage should do the trick.

Females in perticular get rebellious and can start to growl and even nip at you sometimes.At this point most people think that they got a mean rabbit and they do not want it anymore.But all the rabbit need really is to be spayed or neutered.After being altered the rabbit will calm down considerably. This should be done at a young age, at about 5 to 6 months so you and your rabbit dont have time to get frustrated with each other.

Your rabbit might be sick

OK.So if you have an older rabbit that already has been fixed and suddenly display a nasty behavior,this could be a sign of illness.If he is acting out weird,your rabbit might simply be in pain.

See if he is eating and using his litter box normally and pay attention to anything different in his regular habits for a few days. If you see something unusual talk to your vet.Even a minor problem such as fleas or mites may upset a rabbit and cause him to act out.

In the mean time, try not to upset him more by wanting to pick him up and just leave him alone.If he has spend a lot of time in his cage lately, let him out as much as possible to allow him to exercise and play.

Your rabbit might be under a lot of stress

Look around your house and try to see what may be a source of stress to your rabbit.Are they other pets in the house?Barking dogs close by can cause great distress for a little bunny.

Do you have children that are too much around him? Does he have a place of his own to sleep quietly during the day?Bright lights, too much noises, loud music or TV nearby, these are all factors that could cause your rabbit to become aggressive.

If this is the case move the cage to a quiet room or let him have a rabbit proofed room of his own to go to when there is too much going on.

These days, cats are among the most popular pet you can own. There are several breeds available, with the most popular being Persian and Siamese. Cats are a domesticated animal, with origins dating back some 8,000 years and beyond. Like any other pet that you may own, including dogs, cats cost money to take care of properly.

When you get a cat, you’ll need to think about the costs. You’ll obviously need food, and you’ll also need to plan ahead for vet costs. You’ll also need litter, which can tend to get quite expensive as the years go by. Your cat will need a litter box, food dish, and water dish. You should also invest in some toys as well, such as a scratching post, cat toys, a pet carrier, and a bed. You should also look into getting an ID collar as well, just in case your cat ever gets lost.

Feeding your pet will depend a great deal on his age. Older cats require two small meals or one large meal for the day. Kittens on the other hand, require several feedings a day until they get around the age of 12 weeks. Cats that are between three and six months of age need to be fed three times a day. Canned food can be fed to cats, although any food that has been left out longer than 30 minutes need to be disposed of. Canned food can get expensive fast, and you should always keep in mind that some may need to be thrown away when you buy it. Cats loved canned food, although it doesn’t have any benefits to their dental health like dry food does.

As an alternative plan, you can always leave a supply of dry food out for your pet. When you give your cat dry food, you should always make sure that he has enough water. Dry food costs less than canned food, and it can also help to prevent the buildup of tartar on your cat’s teeth. When you buy dry food, you should always look in terms of health and benefits, and stay away from generic food. Even though generic food may be cheaper, it may not offer the nutrients your pet needs.

If you own a kitten, you should only give you kitten food designed for him. You’ll also need to clean and refill his water dish every day. Even though kittens and adult cats like cow’s milk, you should avoid giving it to them as it can cause diarrhea. Treats are fine on occasion, although too many of them can cause your pet to get fat. Feeding your kitten human food is good on occasion, although you may have to mix it in with his cat food.

By themselves, cats stay fairly clean. Although you don’t have to bathe them that often, you’ll need to give them a brushing at least once a day. Brushing will reduce the risk of hairballs and keep your cat’s coat nice and clean. If you are keeping your cat indoors, you’ll need to have a litter box in an area that is easy for your cat to access. You should always scoop it on a daily basis, and clean it out once a week. Cats don’t like to use dirty litter boxes, they prefer for it to be nice and clean.

Although cats do require some work, they are great pets that will provide you with years and years of companionship. As long as you take care of your cat and take him to the vet for his checkups, he should remain healthy. Even though cats can get sick from time to time – knowing how to care for him will make a world of difference.

If there are baby dogs, cats or rabbits, then there are also baby iguanas. It is during this stage that these iguanas appear in their most fragile and need your loving care the most. Although they appear like they are easy to take of in their small appearance, proper precaution is needed so that they will be healthy in their older years.

Just like any juvenile pet, there are certain requirements that you need to provide for your baby iguana. Although they are not as meticulous and as herd to get as any other pet food, you should also consider if these things will be perfect for your iguana. You do not want them to become sickly and eventually die even before you see them in their full sizes, now do you?

Here are some of the important factors you need to consider when taking care of your baby iguana.

Not just any other type of cage will do. Though it does not matter what kind it is made of, you need to consider what should be inside the cage that the iguana will need.

An example is having something in them that will keep your pet warm during the night. Check out for carpeting or artificial turf to cover the flooring area of the cage. If you do not have the budget for it, you can opt for newspapers because they work just as well.

Since iguanas live on trees, you need to set up some branches for your pet to climb on to. Climbing on branches will form part of their leisure and movements. Just make sure that the branches are stable enough to hold their weight in case they lay down on them.

Baby iguanas should always be warm in order to stay healthy. Since you have no way of telling this just by looking at them, you can put a thermometer inside their cage so you can monitor the changes in the temperature inside the cage.

Make certain that you maintain a temperature of 70 degrees during the night and 85 degrees in the day. It is also a good idea for the cage for its shelter to be placed near a source of heat. You will see that your pet is inclined to have a comfortable rest if they stay close to that heat being radiated.

Special monitoring of temperature is required during the cold season. Check the shelter regularly. You would not want your pet to freeze to death without you knowing.

Baby iguanas need to have a diet that is rich in Vitamin D3, phosphorous and calcium. Lots of greens are also needed. You can also give them vegetables and fruits that you yourself are consuming.

Baby iguanas are not used to being fed any kind of food. Their digestive system is not as strong and as flexible as cats or dogs. Know what kind of food they can take and what they cannot.

Your baby iguana can grow up healthy and strong just by taking care of them the way you do any kind of pet. If it is absolutely necessary, you can consult a vet that specializes in iguana for things that are far beyond your comprehension. They will be able to give you sound advices regarding your baby iguana and the things that you need to do.

Netherland dwarf rabbit is probably the most popular rabbit breed when choosing a pet rabbit.There are a few reasons why people prefer them among other breeds.But like any others, they need good care to enjoy a healthy,happy lives.

The Size

The Netherland dwarf rabbit is the smallest breed of rabbits.Their weight do not exceed 2 to 3 pounds.So of course they can have a smaller cage than the larger breeds.But they need just as much space to run and exercise on a daily basis.So rather than leaving your rabbit in a cage, get a exercise pen or pen him off in a rabbit proof room when you are gone and at night, and let him out when you are home.

The Variety

Dwarf rabbits comes in 36 different colors.Breeders have been able to mix them so much than almost any color is available in this breed.That give them great popularity in the rabbit show industry.A lot of choices are available to people who want to get a pet rabbit.

Easy To Care For

Because they are smaller, they need less cleaning and less food than the larger breeds.Their diet should consist essentially in Timothy hay, Timothy hay based pellets,and a small daily portion of fresh green vegetables.Fruits should be given in moderation for their high sugar content.

Great Personality

The Netherland dwarf rabbit has a playful,gentle and inquisitive personality.He may display some territorial and aggressive behavior if not spayed or neutered. It is important for the health of all rabbits to have them fixed by the age of 5 to 6 months old.First for health reasons, your rabbit will live a lot longer if altered and for social and behavior reasons.

The care of post-operation cases will depend to a large extent on the nature and severity of the operation, and whether surgical measures have been carried out as the culmination of a long, serious illness or in an animal whose general condition is excellent. Constitutional disturbance is either absent or very slight where a minor operation is performed (i.e., to correct inverted eyelids) but may be very great in a serious abdominal condition.

If the animal needs much in the way of skilled attention ,difficult dressings, stimulants, and so on,he will probably be kept at the veterinary hospital or clinic as long as these are required. Similarly, if the dog’s post-operative condition is such that removal would be dangerous he will be kept until it is safe for him to return to his owner.

Dogs, particularly pet dogs, usually recover more quickly at home, and veterinary surgeons for this reason try to return an animal as speedily as possible. The anxious amateur nurse may have the dog’s care on her hands sooner than she imagined!

If feasible, she should try to find out at the hospital whether the dog has to be kept as much at rest as possible, and what his general condition is. Dogs, unlike human patients, are not confined to bed as a rule after an operation unless they are so weak or shocked that rest and quiet are essential, in which case they will be kept in the hospital.

Movement within reason is beneficial, and recent research has shown that human patients, too, are often better if exercise is encouraged from the start. The bedding for a post-operative case should be freshly laundered a light-coloured or white blanket is useful.

Diet in post-operation cases.

Diet should be light and confined to fluids for a few days, and glucose should be added to all drinks. There is always loss of blood with which to contend; shock may still be present in a mild degree and fluid mixed with glucose will do much to remedy this. The return to normal diet should be gradual by way of such light, easily digested fare as baked custards, white fish boiled in milk, brown bread and milk, lightly boiled eggs, etc. Virol is excellent for convalescent patients, whether medical or surgical.

When solid diet is permitted this should be especially nourishing, for instance, four meals a day; breakfast of cereal and milk; for mid-day feed, a generous allowance of raw meat or boiled rabbit plus whole meal and halibut oil; for tea, an egg beaten up in milk, and for the evening meal, raw meat or fish. These body building foods (or proteins, as we call them),meat, fish, milk and eggs are needed to replace the protein being used by the body to repair the injured tissues. In much the same way the nursing and expectant bitch is fed liberally with these protein foods to help her to replace her own “body builders” which are being used for the growth and nourishment of her puppies.

Dressing the Wound

As the wound will normally be aseptic the original dressing should not need renewal unless the veterinary surgeon particularly wishes it. There is, however, sometimes discharge from the wound and these cases will, of course, need to be dressed, although usually gentle removal of the discharge with clean cotton wool and warm boiled water is all that is required.

When dressing an operation wound everything used to touch it should be sterilized (i.e., rendered free from bacteria) by boiling beforehand. Cotton wool, broken up into small swabs, should be boiled in a scrupulously clean covered saucepan and the water used for this when cooled, will be useful for removing any discharge. Remember that the water will stay sterile only if the lid is firmly on. A piece of lint sufficiently large to cover the wound should be cut from a packet of sterilized lint (this is obtainable from the chemist), using scissors which have been boiled. If an antibiotic powder or any other dressing is to be applied, have this in a screw-topped jar or sealed container kept tightly covered except when actually in use, and boil the teaspoon used for applying the powder.

It is advisable to use forceps, also sterilized, to handle the cotton wool swabs used for wiping away the discharge, but in any case the hands should be thoroughly scrubbed with plenty of soap and water. Have everything ready on a tray beforehand,the covered saucepan with the cotton wool swabs in the warm boiled water, the scissors, the piece of lint (which should be left covered up in its packet until the last moment), the spoon and powder (if this is ordered), bandages and/or surgical coat and a receptacle for the soiled dressings. Have the scissors, forceps and spoon in the saucepan in which they have been sterilized immersed in the boiled water until you need to use them; if left uncovered they will quickly become contaminated by germs in the atmosphere.

If the soiled dressing adheres to the wound it must never be pulled off; a little of the warm boiled water should be trickled between the dressing and wound until the dressing can be gently removed. Never touch the wound with your fingers if you can avoid doing so, and preferably use forceps for handling the wool to wipe away the discharge. Be careful to wipe the latter away from the wound and not across it. Do not have the cotton wool any wetter than necessary.

Occasionally it may be necessary for the veterinary surgeon to remove a suture (stitch) to allow drainage, and if the wound appears very red and swollen in one part, with no discharge, he should be informed.

The sutures are removed about a week after the operation and it is a wise precaution to take the temperature daily for about five days. Any rise to 102.5 F. and over should be reported. The animal should wear a surgical coat until healing is complete and dressings may have to be continued for some days after the removal of the sutures. Most post-operation cases need plenty of rest and quiet; even if the dog seems to be little affected, any surgical interference is a shock to the system and the animal needs a peaceful convalescence.

How To Make Surgical Coats

Surgical coats, used for protecting wounds (particularly abdominal) after operations, should be made from clean, strong white material (old sheeting is usually very suitable). Four holes should be made for the legs, the material drawn up and fastened along the back and round the neck, and shaped where necessary over the thighs. Perfect fitting is not necessary provided the coat prevents the dog from licking at his wound or worrying at the bandages. He should be able to move comfortably. When shaping, be careful with the scissors as it is easy to cut off too much material.

Here and there a few stitches can be inserted to keep the coat tidy and it should be fastened by tapes (never safety pins) along the back. At least three coats should be made to allow for accidental soiling and regular laundering.